If you've never ordered a novelty ID before, it's surprisingly easy to get things wrong. Most people don't mean to they're just excited, in a hurry, or don't fully understand how the process works behind the scenes.
After working in this space for years with film students, cosplayers, photographers, collectors, and everyday customers I've noticed the same mistakes repeating themselves. Not because people are careless, but because they simply don't know what makes a good prop ID and what slows everything down. We cover this in more detail in Fake ID Myths Mistakes Get Caught. The Electronic Frontier Foundation recommends minimizing the amount of real personal data shared in any online transaction.
So instead of giving you another generic "checklist," I want to walk you through these mistakes the same way I would explain them to a friend sitting across from me. With stories, real examples, and honest guidance.
Let's go through them one by one. 1. Sending a "Quick Selfie" Instead of a Proper ID Photo
This is the biggest mistake I see.
And I get it the easiest thing is to snap a selfie and send it in. But novelty IDs (whether cosplay badges, film props, or collectibles) still need a clean, structured photo. Our guide on Why Fakeids Sells Novelty and Collectible IDs goes deeper into this.
What usually happens:
Someone takes a selfie at arm's length. The lighting is yellowish, the camera is too close, and the background is their bedroom wall. They send it in thinking, "They'll fix it."
But the truth is:
A designer can't fix lighting, blur, or distorted angles.
When the ID prints, every flaw becomes even more noticeable on PVC plastic. Especially shadows, grainy textures, and cropped edges.
Here's the advice I give everyone:
- Stand in front of a plain wall.
- Ask someone to take the photo from 6-8 feet away.
- Turn on good white lighting.
- Keep your head straight.
- Don't crop your forehead.
- Don't send a car selfie (yes, people do this).
When the photo is sharp, the entire card looks professionally done. That's why prop photographers follow the same rules when shooting badges for film sets clarity first, everything else second. 2. Using Real Sensitive Details (When You Don't Have To) Following ISO biometric photo standards for face positioning and lighting helps ensure a professional result.
This one always surprises people.
A lot of beginners give their real home address, real ID numbers, and real personal details not knowing they absolutely don't need to.
Novelty IDs are not connected to government systems. They are not meant for verification. They're props. For cosplay. For films. For collecting. Learn more about this in our article on Novelty ID Education Center.
There's no reason to include:
- your actual street address
- your legitimate state details
- a real ID number
- personal data that risks privacy
In fact, most experienced users purposely use fictional addresses or character information because it protects them and keeps the purpose strictly creative.
A good novelty ID still looks believable even with made-up details. That's why prop studios in Hollywood almost always use fictional but realistic information: it looks good on camera without crossing any lines. 3. Asking for a Real State Template (Which No Legit Designer Will Use) For more on this topic, see our guide on Novelty IDs Use Cases.
People new to novelty IDs sometimes expect the final card to look exactly like their state's driver's license. They're not aware that replicating government IDs even for props crosses legal boundaries.
So they request things like:
- the exact background of a state
- real security strips
- holograms
- actual DMV barcode formats
A legitimate novelty-ID designer can't use any of this.
Instead, we create:
- fictional templates
- custom layouts
- themed designs
- decorative barcodes
- prop-style elements
Think of it this way:
It shouldn't look like something you could hand to a bouncer.
It should look like something a filmmaker would hand to an actor.
When people understand this distinction, the entire ordering process becomes easier. 4. Ignoring the Signature (Or Submitting a Messy One)
People underestimate how much a signature affects the final look. It seems like a small thing... until the card prints.
Common problems:
- signing with pencil
- writing too lightly
- using lined notebook paper
- sending a tiny signature
- using a pen that barely shows up under light
- uploading a blurry scan
When the signature is low quality, it looks smudged on print.
Every experienced novelty-ID designer I know gives the same advice:
Use a black Sharpie Sign on plain white paper Keep the paper flat Take a clear photo (not a scan)
It makes the signature bold, clean, and authentic-looking the same method prop departments use for badges in film production. 5. Submitting the Form Before Reviewing Your Details
This is another common mistake:
People rush the order form.
They misspell names, mix up eye color, choose the wrong date of birth format, forget their shipping details, or upload a photo they didn't mean to use.
Then the messages begin:
- "Can you change this?"
- "Actually, use this other photo."
- "I misspelled my name can you fix it?"
- "I forgot to add my city."
Sometimes it's fine.
But sometimes production has already started.
The best way to avoid this?
- Slow down for 30 seconds.
- Read your details once.
- That's all it takes.
When you've worked in this field long enough, you know rushed forms cause 80% of delays. 6. Expecting Barcodes to Work Like Real Ones
This is a misconception that comes from TV shows showing barcodes being scanned dramatically.
People assume a novelty ID should:
- scan
- show data
- behave like a PDF417
- work with age-verification devices
But novelty IDs are props, not identification.
The barcodes are visual elements.
They cannot and should not function like real license barcodes.
Real barcodes belong to government systems, tied to identity databases. Novelty/prop cards purposely avoid those formats.
What is possible is a decorative barcode for realism the kind seen in sci-fi films or corporate-themed badges. But it won't scan.
And that's exactly how it's supposed to be. 7. Choosing Over-Complicated Designs That Look Worse When Printed
This happens especially with people who love creative visuals.
They request:
- neon gradients
- heavy shadows
- texture overlays
- extremely tiny details
- holographic-style designs
It may look great on your phone screen...
but PVC printers don't handle gradients and tiny patterns the same way digital screens do.
This is why most professional novelty IDs use:
- clean lines
- high contrast
- readable fields
- simple backgrounds
Good prop designers know this from years of test prints.
Simple designs print sharper.
Busy designs become fuzzy. 8. Assuming Shipping Is Instant (Or Ignoring Location Limits)
Another common issue:
People think novelty IDs ship like Amazon Prime.
Or they assume they'll get worldwide shipping instantly.
Actual production involves:
printing on PVC laminating cutting quality checking packaging region-based shipping logistics
And depending on your region, shipping may have:
- different carriers
- customs checks
- longer delivery windows
Beginners often don't account for that and then panic when tracking isn't instant.
The best thing you can do?
Order early.
Especially if you need it for cosplay events, photoshoots, birthdays, or film projects.
Production takes time because the goal is quality not speed. 9. Expecting a Novelty ID to "Do More" Than It's Meant For
This is the mistake that can create real issues.
Some beginners think a novelty ID can:
- get them into a bar
- act as real verification
- bypass age checks
- be used at security desks
No.
That's not how novelty IDs work and it's not what they're for.
A novelty ID is:
- a prop
- a collectible
- a cosplay accessory
- a film tool
- a wallet filler
- a creative item
Nothing more.
If you stay within these boundaries, everything stays fun, harmless, and completely legal. Final Thoughts: A Good Novelty ID Starts With Good Preparation
Over the years, I've learned that most problems don't come from the design team they come from tiny details customers overlook.
And the truth is:
A novelty ID is only as good as the materials you provide.
A sharp photo.
A clear signature.
Fictional details.
A simple design.
A complete form.
Get these right, and you'll get a card you're proud of whether it's for cosplay, a video, a shoot, or just your collection.
If you ever feel unsure, ask questions.
A good designer would rather guide you now than fix issues later.
That's how you avoid every mistake on this list and end up with a novelty ID that looks exactly the way you imagined.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most common mistake when ordering a novelty ID?
The most common mistake is submitting a poor-quality photo. Low resolution, bad lighting, wrong background color, or incorrect framing results in a card that looks obviously unprofessional and does not match real DMV photo standards.
Should I proofread my novelty ID order before submitting?
Absolutely. Typos in names, incorrect dates, wrong addresses, and other data entry errors are printed exactly as submitted. Most vendors do not verify your information for accuracy, so double-check every field before placing your order.
Can I change my order after submitting it?
Most vendors allow changes within a short window after order placement, typically 24 to 48 hours. After production begins, changes are usually not possible. Contact customer support immediately if you notice an error in your submission.